TUTORIAL: NATURAL, WEARABLE CUT CREASE

One of my favourite dramatic eye looks is the 'cut crease', because it takes a lot of skill to perfect, but the results look great. It's a great one to make your eyes 'pop', but sometimes it's way too over the top for day to day wear. 

I've taken the idea of the cut crease and made it a little more subtle, using muted nude tones and adding a little bit of drama. This does take a bit of practice, but once you've nailed it you can start experimenting!

1. Okay, so you want to start off with a smooth base, and that begins with an eyeshadow primer. We want the colours to really stand out with this look, and the primer will help to show the pigment of the shadow much more than it would usually. Apply a matte, pale vanilla shadow all over the lid and brow bone with a large fluffy brush.

2. Next, take a light nude shadow like 'Buck' by Urban Decay and start to 'carve' your crease. The closer you bring the colour to the lashline the more subtle the look will be, and so for full effect I took the shadow just above my natural crease to really open the eye and create definition. Use a blending brush for this step, however try to use minimal product and build the colour, whilst holding the brush downward to use the tip for definition.

3. Now you have your guideline, we can start to deepen the colour and start creating the contrast with the lid. With a matte dark brown shadow on a short shader brush like the MAC 228, start to softly create a sharper line along the 'crease' - your effect will be better by using a small amount of product, a light application and patience! - buff upward to begin blending the two tones together. 

4. Build this up as dramatically as you like, by applying small amounts of the darker shadow, making sure not to smudge the definition you made in the crease earier. Only blend upwards and outwards. 

5. Then, using your blending brush and what I call a 'transition shade' (a shadow 2 to 3 shades lighter than your primary colour), blend the two together to create a seamless gradient up towards the brow. 

6. Line the eyes with your favourite liquid or gel liner. The trick here is to make sure the angle of the cat eye joins with the outer corner of the shadow, forming an almost 'triangular' shape, framing the eye. To really brighten the eye, apply a small amount of a pale iridescent shade like 'Virgin' by Urban Decay in the inner corner of the eye and dust the leftover product over the brow bone. 

With lower lashline lined.

7. If you want to add a little more intensity, add a small amount of black shadow in the very outer part of the cut crease, again blending upwards to join all the shades together. Another way to add 'drama' to the look is lining the lower lashline but don't join this to your upper liner, flick the outer edge out slightly to open the eye. 

8. Apply mascara and lashes if you wish, 'clean' the under eye up with some concealer/powder and you're done! 

The finished look!

Thanks for reading, 

TUTORIAL/TREND: OXBLOOD LIPS

A trend that I have been absolutely loving is the 'oxblood' lip. The shade just exudes that 'gloss' and class of the red carpet whilst remaining almost unkempt and grungy. It can be worn smudged, stained, strong or glossy. I just love it. 

Kate Bosworth looking absolutely stunning with a minimal eye and flawless face 

A full face of makeup, but the lip still remains understated unlike a typical pillarbox red.

The shade looks gorgeous with full, smokey brown eyes or minimal eye makeup and full, defined brows.

Ranging from warmer, richer red/blue tones to muted brown matte shades, I've seen this trend translate onto a number of faces and each look seems to bring something new.

Some may say the look is a little drastic for an every day look or for a night out, so I've adapted it to be slightly more wearable, taking note of the glossier edge of the look.

1. Start off by 'blanking' out any redness from the lips to create a fresh base for the lip colour to show 'true'. Make sure you've moisturised your lips before hand so they don't look dry. You can skip this step, but I feel this also helps the lip colour to stay on longer without a product like 'Lipcote'. Line with a deep red liner if you wish.

2. Apply a deep red lip stain or non-sticky pigmented balm or gloss all over the lips, blot with toilet paper, apply again, and repeat until you have an even, demi-matte finish on the lip.

3. Using a lip brush, create an 'ombre' type effect on the lips by applying a deeper, darker shade of lipstick in the outer corners of the lips. Blot just as you did with the first colour, however each time you reapply the product, be sure to blend it in with your fingertip. Build up to your desired intensity.

4. If you want a slightly smudged effect on the lips which is more natural, leave the lips like this. Or, if you want a more refined, 'hollywood' finish, clean the outer edges up with a small detailer brush and a small amount of concealer.

5. Pair with a slightly dewy, demi-matte face and soft contouring. I used a copper eyeshadow all over my lids with a deeper brown in the crease and on the lower lash line to re-create that 'slept-in' eye look.

The finished look with soft contouring and a copper lid.

PRODUCTS USED:

Sleek Makeup True Colour Lipstick in 'Cherry'

Maybelline 10hr Super Stay Tint Gloss in 'Ruby Indulgence'

Thanks for reading, 

GEL EYELINER 101: MAC FLUIDLINE IN 'BLACKTRACK'

Gel eyeliner is one of the best and easiest ways to achieve a real 'no-budge' look - it's just mastering how to apply that's the difficult part. I am using MAC Fluidline in 'Blacktrack'.

I've made this tutorial to demonstrate what I feel is the easiest and quickest way to apply gel liner, but I would definitely recommend practicing this a few times to get the feel of the angled brush. 

1. Apply your eyeshadow primer and eyeshadow(s) as desired. I am wearing a taupe shadow faintly blended into the crease of the socket. 

2. Use a small, dense angled eyeliner brush like this one by Ecotools. Draw a thin diagonal flick/line on the outside edge of the eye. This will form the guideline for a cat eye flick. Be sure to use a small amount of product and build up slowly to your desired density. 

3. Create a triangular 'join' onto the line you just made, and connect this to the lash line. 'Colour' this in with the rest of the product left on your brush. 

4. After filling the triangular shape, gradually extend the line across the lashline, into the inner corners of the eye. I usually line my top waterline also, but if you're a little squeamish you can leave that out! It just deepens the definition along the lashes, making them appear thicker at the root. 

5. Using a little more product, make the liner darker and tidy up any gaps or bumps in the liner. Be sure to direct the angle of the brush in the direction you want the liner to go. May sound simple, but it really can be difficult getting a seamless line when the brush is in the wrong place! 

Apply mascara and you're done! I will admit this may take a while to master, but once you've got the hang of it this can soon become part of your routine. 

Thanks for reading, 

TUTORIAL: RETRO 60'S INSPIRED EYE/LIP

The 60's is one of the most innovative and inspiring decades, especially within the world of beauty and fashion. Icons like Twiggy and Bridget Bardot really set the tone for this kind of look; using monotone shadows and big, bold contours. Here's my interpretation of a much loved retro look that you can recreate for yourself at home! 

1. Prime your eyelids with a primer such as Urban Decay Primer Potion or Stay Don't Stray by Benefit. This will create an even base to help the shadow last longer. Then, apply a white eyeliner all over the lid (Use one like NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk.) This will also help the shadow to 'stick' but will make the creamy, matte colours 'pop'. To really set the look off, fill in brows with a slightly darker pencil or shadow to your natural shade to recreate the bold-brow trend of the 1960's. 

2. Apply a light, nude beige shadow all over the lid, using a shadow such as 'Vanilla' by MAC or 'Kiss The Day' by NYX. Make sure to 'pat' the colour into the base you've previously created to really make the lid pigmented and bright. Any large eyeshadow brush will do the job here!

3. Using a matte taupe or light brown shadow, start to create a contour in the crease. Let the brush run right into the corners of the eye socket to really define the area. To make the definition really concentrated, use a small, dense eyeshadow brush. I used the MAC 228 Mini Shader Brush.  

4. Blend this through the socket to soften the line with a fluffy blending brush (anything similar to MAC's 224 Tapered blending brush.) Blending the contour through the socket makes this a much more wearable look. 

5.  With the same shader brush, apply a richer matte brown shadow right in the crease and blend this through again, using a small amount of product and building up the intensity and you go. 

6. Apply a white eyeliner pencil all along the waterline, with a pencil like the NYX one used for the base earlier or an eyeliner like the Rimmel Soft Kohl Kajal in 'Pure White' 

7. Make a thick cat-eye flick along the lashline, using a liquid liner. One of my favourite liquid eyeliners is  Collection 2000 Extreme 24 Hour Felt Tip Liner - or if you've a steadier hand, use MAC Fluidline in 'Blacktrack' and an angled brush. Be sure to make the lines smooth and sharp, and bring a little under the eye to connect the liner. This will create a nice contrast with the white liner inside the waterline. 'Clean up' the eye with the edge of a make-up wipe to create the sharp, clean lines of the liner and eyeshadow. 

8. Apply a generous coating of volumizing or lengthening mascara. False lashes are optional, but I really think they finish the look off! I also drew some bottom lashes on with my liquid liner to create the 'doll' effect that was seen so often with this look. Don't go too overboard though, just subtle additions to the bottom lash line look lovely. 

The finished eye with false lashes. 

9. Now for the lips. To recreate the bright nude shade without making the look too harsh, apply a small amount of concealer or foundation over the lips with a foundation brush just to cancel some of the redness out. Apply a soft rose pink lip liner like Bourjois Lip Pencil in 'Sienne Kiss'.

10. Blend the line out with your finger tips and soften the colour, graduating into the center of the lip. You can apply the lip liner just on the contours of your own lips or accentuate the area by applying the line just outside of your own natural shape. Using a soft pink like this will create a much more natural look, yet still emphasise the area.

11. Finally, apply a sheer glossy lipstick like MAC Cremesheen in 'Shy Girl' to put a modern twist on the pale, matte lip seen in the 60's.

The finished lip. 

Pair this look with dewy, simple skin with just a hint of bronzer to contour the face and perhaps a flush of dolly pink blush, and you're ready to go!

Thanks for reading,